That’s a solid move, pushing back with your own research. I’ve seen a lot of folks just accept the first number the insurance throws out, but you’re right—those values can be way off from what’s actually happening in your local market. It’s wild how much difference a little digging can make.
I had something similar happen with my old Outback. The adjuster’s “market value” was almost laughable compared to what I saw on Craigslist and local dealer sites. I sent them a spreadsheet with links and photos, and suddenly their tune changed. It’s like they expect most people not to question it.
You nailed it about sentimental value not mattering to them. I get attached to my cars (probably too much), but at the end of the day, it’s all numbers for the insurance folks. Still, it feels good when you can back up your side with real data and get a fair shake.
It does take some effort, though. Not everyone has the time or patience to go through listings and gather proof. But if you care about keeping your car—or just getting what it’s actually worth—it’s worth the hassle. Sometimes I wonder if they’d ever budge if nobody pushed back.
Anyway, props for sticking with it and not letting them lowball you. It’s a hassle, but sometimes that’s what it takes to get treated fairly.
Honestly, I think most people would be shocked at how formulaic the “totaled” decision really is. It’s just a percentage—usually around 70-75% of the car’s actual cash value—if repairs hit that number, they call it a total loss. But here’s the kicker: if their “actual cash value” is lowballed, you’re getting shortchanged twice. I’ve had to argue every single time, and it’s wild how quickly numbers change when you show them real comps. It shouldn’t be this much work, but if you don’t push back, you’re leaving money on the table.
Yeah, the “totaled” formula is pretty cut-and-dry on paper, but in practice it’s a lot messier. I’ve had clients come to me after getting a laughably low offer for their car’s value—one guy had a loaded Camry and they tried to pay him out like it was a base model. Once we pulled up some local listings with similar mileage and options, the number magically went up by over a grand. It’s wild how much wiggle room there is if you just push a little. Honestly, if you don’t come prepared with comps, you’re almost guaranteed to get the short end of the stick.
Honestly, the “totaled” math feels like it was invented by someone who’s never actually bought a car.
Couldn’t agree more. I once had an adjuster try to tell me my Outback was worth less than a rusty old Civic—until I whipped out a stack of local listings. Suddenly, their calculator started working differently. If you want a fair shake, you’ve gotta do your homework... and maybe channel your inner used car salesman.“if you don’t come prepared with comps, you’re almost guaranteed to get the short end of the stick.”
I get where you’re coming from, but I’m not totally convinced it’s just about comps. There’s a formula most insurers follow—something like if the repair costs hit 70-80% of the car’s value, it’s considered totaled. Sometimes, even with all the “homework” in the world, that number is hard to budge. Like you said,
But I’ve seen cases where even a stack of listings didn’t matter much because of how strict their threshold is. Maybe it’s less about negotiation and more about their internal math?“you’ve gotta do your homework... and maybe channel your inner used car salesman.”
